Toggle settings

[imported_Mac]

I have never known anyone that moves their toggle attachment point when doing differing jumps - now to me this seems something that is over looked and something people will always do (everyone will goto shallow brakes SU but wont move their toggle settings!!) - surely this will effect your control lines as much as moving from deep to shallow with your choice of SD/SU?

So..............just interested..........

does anyone move their toggle attachment points dependant on differing jumps?

For example:
Do you move your toggle attachment setting when moving from SU / SD?
Do you move your toggle attachment setting for differing altitudes in exit points / LZ’s?
just interested..........

NB: I don’t mean brake settings.

Thank you for your time

[crwper]

I've never really changed the toggle settings. I can maybe justify that as follows. Any change in toggle settings is an opportunity to make a rigging error. What advantage does it have? Any change I could make to the toggle settings, I could mimick by adjusting the way I fly my canopy, right? So, I think by leaving the toggles alone, I am avoiding a potential rigging error, and I don't really lose any flexibility in the control of my canopy.

Michael

[imported_Tom Aiello]

>Any change I could make to the toggle settings, I could mimick by adjusting the way I fly my canopy, right?

That depends on how long your arms are, doesn't it? If I use my slider up toggle setting for slider down jumps, my arms simply aren't long enough to max out the flare.

>I think by leaving the toggles alone, I am avoiding a potential rigging error...

I guess that's reasonable. I've changed my toggles so many times, that I'm very comfortable doing it, so my fear of mis-rigging and giving myself a detaching toggle is very small.

I'm a big fan of changing the toggle settings. Otherwise I feel like I'm not using my full control range.

--Tom Aiello
tbaiello@mac.com

[space]

6" shorter with slider off, My Brake lines are fingertrapped for SU, My toggles are just of the stiffend, grommeted type, with a long stiffy, I do it fairly easy by pulling the dacron through the toggle grommet, twisting the bight 180° and passing it over the bottom or top of the toggle, and it takes up right around 6" if i remember correctly. An interesting point to this discussion lies in the idea that it is extra rigging. When one does a configuration change from one mode to the other, doesn´t one normally untie the toggles for the reroute? It is only tying it deeper. like pulling 12" thru instead of 6". The extra flare power and control is really cool in object laden LZ´s.
take care,
space

[imported_badenhop]

Hello,
Shortening the steering lines for S/D is strongly recommended.
It greatly increases your range of control on any canopy.
Just the other day I saw a jumper go from S/U to S/D,
he did not shorten the toggle setting.
Ended up in a tree.

[crwper]

Interesting thought on the "extra" rigging. You're absolutely correct. Thanks!

Michael

[stinkydragon]

Someone specificly mentioned a Mojo and Fox. Anybody got any feedback for adjustments to an Ace? Pretty much all my jumps are without a slider. Thanks.

[imported_Tom Aiello]

I'm a short, fat guy, so I need pretty short toggle settings to get maximum control. So, keep that in mind here.

I shortened my Mojo control lines around 15 inches for slider down. I shortened my Blackjack (same as Ace) lines around 8 inches.

Remember, that's all going to be very personal--depending on your personal canopy size, body weight, and arm length. The best thing to do is use the "knot" method to slide your toggle up and down on successive test jumps, and look at where it falls at full flight (lines should be just barely slack) and full flare.

Your results will vary.

--Tom Aiello
tbaiello@mac.com

[pBASEtobe]

Why bother with all the extra rigging when you can just take a wrap on the lines. Put your hands thru the toggles and wrap the line around your hands. This will shorten up your lines. No need to change anything, no possibility of mistakes. We do this all the time when flying paragliders and our lines are much thinner that BASE canopy lines.

[Raymond Losli]

I just give myself a custom Deep brake setting for Slider Off jumps only.
I think that if you can stall your canopy out, If you flair to deep.
There is no reason what so ever to try to shorten your Toggle range.
By different Toggle settings.

If you can Not stall your canopy out when you Flair deep brakes.
There is something wrong. Make changes only then.
.......................


also wonder why Post # 2,4,5,6,and 7
join date; Dec. 1969

[Tom Aiello]

Why bother with all the extra rigging when you can just take a wrap on the lines. Put your hands thru the toggles and wrap the line around your hands. This will shorten up your lines. No need to change anything, no possibility of mistakes. We do this all the time when flying paragliders and our lines are much thinner that BASE canopy lines.

On some BASE jumps, canopy time is short enough that you simply don't have enough time to take a wrap before setting up the landing.